Moreover, since 2012 The North Face decided to organize a yearly event for all climbers and for professional climbers. The rocks make the island ideal for climbers, due to their exceptional quality. Kalymnos can be climbed all year around but the dominant season is spring/fall with most climbers going in October so crags will get a little full during this time. The volunteer rescuers are professionally trained to rescue an injured person from crags and approach paths, with or without the use of ropes, and to provide first aid. So far, approximately 60 fields of sport climbing routes have been dug and delivered, most of them being of 'one pitch' type. Pack it up and take it with you to dispose of when you are back at the village. The sea is too cold for swimming and the chance of rain is higher, but, generally, Kalymnian rock dries fast. Grades range from F3a to F9a, although quite a few project routes are expected to exceed 9a. A bolt should be placed exactly before the crux of a route, not after. Bolts: Because Kalymnos is a marine environment, stainless steel bolts and hangers must always be used, i.e. Also two good maps for Kalymnos from Anavasi maps (you can also get the GB here) and Terrain maps, View Kalymnos (Καλυμνος) Image Gallery - 51 Images. 12. (1), Additions & Corrections Stay on the designated paths as shown or described in the guidebook. Routes are graded according to the French grading system. Weeds, woody shrubs, and thorny bushes often grown in the line of routes, especially in the spring and on routes that don’t get many ascents. Slings as permanent protection should not be placed even if there are good natural holes. Here’s how it all started: we first heard about the climbing potential of Kalymnos in 1995 when one of the best Greek climbers out of Patras, Giannis Torelli, visited the island. To ensure a minimum of safety and quality standards, the municipal council of Kalymnos has voted (259/2016) to implement a New Route Protocol effective September 2018. sport climbing in kalymnos Climbers would be delighted to experience slab, steep, overhang, and tufa climbing in this wonderful island, as well as a wide range of grades from 2a to 9b. • Autumn: Ideal. (1 ), http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grade_(climbing), http://www.kalymnos-isl.gr/portal/en/index.php, http://www.kalymnos-isl.gr/portal/en/climb/, http://www.oreivatein.com/oreivatein/climb/kalymnos/guide2006.htm, http://www.griechenland.de/Griechenland,Dodekanes,Kalymnos,REISEFUEHRER, Route Grades and Grading System Comparison, View   The Kalymnos Rescue Team is a legally registered Greek non-profit. Also present were some climbers known for their important role in the growth of climbing and equipping of numerous routes on Kalymnos, like Michel Piola, Hans Weninger, Guy Abert, Karsten Oelze, Manolo Zanolla, and Simone Moro. • I heard Kalymnos is kid-friendly. The variety of 550 routes, offers infinite possibilities for sport climbing with unique technical movements for high thrills and new experiences. Read more about the 2nd Kalymnos Climbing Festival. – the location of the routes (sector, sub-sector). But remember that you are responsible for the safety and behavior of your children. According to the new protocol, any new routing on Kalymnos is subject to approval by a three-person committee (a representative of the Kalymnos municipality, a representative of the Kalymnos Rescue Team, and mountain guide Aris Theodoropoulos).   Everyone stared in astonishment as Adam Ondra sent the hardest routes on Kalymnos with incredible ease. As part of the 2015 Municipal Rebolting Project on Kalymnos, nearly 300 routes were rebolted and 100 new routes were added. The bolt placement guidelines of FFME should be followed: Always put the first bolt at most 2.8m off the ground, the second at most 1.2m further up and the third at most 2m above the second. The protection on existing routes was improved and new routes, as well as a basic multi-lingual website, were created. Kalymnos has the particularity of being very rocky, with limestone cliffs. Climb Kalymnos, a climbers’ paradise. The festival was a joint effort by the Municipality of Kalymnos and Aris. Aconcagua mountain page is a child of the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits.' There is nothing monotonous about the climbing—there is a great variety of rock, with slabs, delicate walls, pumpy routes with pockets, and stalactites or tufas on overhanging rock and roofs. The toilet is at your rental, so give yourself enough time before hitting the crag to use it. • These goats look hungry. When the rock is very sharp, time should be devoted to smoothing out the ultra-sharp edges off the holds and footholds with the gentle use of a hammer or wire brush. Only in 1996, an Italian climbers couple has discovered the Island as a climbers' paradise. You can climb inside the caves when it rains, but you cannot during a thunderstorm. Some restaurants and rental studios in Masouri stay open year-round, so you can still find places to eat and sleep, though your choices will be more limited. Kalymnos is one of the most popular sport climbing destinations in the world. It all started when a famous Italian couple climbers visited the island and saw the huge potential of the island in terms of climbing. The whole island is a unique natural climbing field with more than 1300 climbing tracks of various levels of difficulty providing a huge range of climbing on slabs, big walls, overhangs and tufas to … The goal is for the climbing routes on Kalymnos to be as safe as possible. 2. This forum is more active. Among these were some of the biggest names in climbing at the time, who also helped tremendously by putting up some excellent new routes. It would be nice to keep this tradition on Kalymnos. He climbed numerous routes from 8a+ to 8c+, many of them to warm up, haha. The main sectors targeted were Symplegades, Arhi Left, Ghost Kitchen and Galatiani. Immediately after Adam sent Los Revolucionarios, on a dreadfully hot and humid day, he went on to Los Kukos 8c and just barely missed the onsight. The climbing routes are marked based on a difficulty scale, so as everyone will be able to directly verify their progress. Holds should never be chipped, and artificial holds should never be placed. The men’s route was proving more tricky especially with some of the tufas remaining damp and no one managed success on their first redpoint attempt. 5. By taxi, it's a 15-minute, 8-Euro ride to the northwest beach towns. Articles ensued in Alp and Rotpunkt magazines in the spring of 1999, and the rest is history. One of the greatest things about Kalymnos is that every single climber can find something to climb here. May 3, Kalymnos must be one of the world’s best known sport climbing This new Rockfax guidebook covers all the climbing in the usual Rockfax style – huge . • This path doesn’t make sense! And right after that, he sprinted to Sikati Cave in the middle of the afternoon to flash the 50m Jaws 8c, also placing the draws. Take your family, your friends, regardless of age and sample a wonderful experience. The degrees of difficulty start with educational routes from 4c and reach up 9c for the experienced. 15. The Kos to Kalymnos ferry costs 3.50 Euros, takes about 45 minutes, and lands at the busy port town of Pothia, on the opposite side of Kalymnos from the climbing. During her week on Kalymnos, Maja onsighted a total of 9 routes 8a or harder. Do not mix different materials, for example a stainless steel bolt with a non-stainless steel hanger. If a local individual or business approaches you and asks to sponsor your bolts in return for a sector/route in their name, follow the steps detailed at the top of this section: Email the designated committee; in the email, state your name; your previous experience equipping sport routes; the hardware specifications, which must comply with the specifications in the New Route Protocol; the number of new routes you plan to equip; and the location where you would like to equip them (sector, sub-sector, part of the island). In this way, climbers can concentrate on the technical difficulty of the routes without worrying about serious injury or worse. Take your family, your friends, regardless of age and sample a wonderful experience. The entire island is a unique climbing track in the world with various levels of difficulty that can be adapted to each level and style of climbing. The It doesn’t typically rain here in September and October, and mid-October to late November is usually perfect. New routes should not be very close to each other or tightly squeezed between already existing routes. If the winter has been rainy, tufas may be seeping. --Meursault in 'The Stranger', It's bright white limestone is different from most other sectors, Images It is also best that no more routes be opened on the right side of Odyssey, where the routes are already dense. 19. Always have a bag(s) with you. Full version of the Kalymnos New Route Protocol (courtesy of the Municipality of Kalymnos). Many premium crags, mostly between Arginonta and Emporios, are perfect for cold-weather climbing. Otherwise climbers sacrifice precious skin off their fingers and typically never go on said route again. But there are also more than 700 routes graded 7b and up, and the hardest confirmed grade on Kalymnos is a 9a (Los Revolucionarios at sector Odyssey, which was redpointed by Adam Ondra in 2009). The southern part of Kalymnos is the least developed area in terms of rock climbing and therefore the climbing feels a little more remote than the rest of the island. There are guides, such as Simon Montgomery , available and equipment to hire but it is often best to book before you go to … • A note about route length: The length of routes in the guidebook or on this site are approximations, and they are usually rounded up. Furthermore, at that time bolts began to be replaced primarily by Raumer’s 12mm hang fix stainless steel expansion bolts. These efforts led to the first international climbing event on Kalymnos in October 2000, organized in part by the Acharnes Greek Alpine Club, which the prominent French alpinist Catherine Destivelle attended as special guest. They will take food straight out of your backpack, even if it’s wrapped, and it will happen so quickly you won’t know what hit you. The North Face festivals brought a certain prestige that had been missing since the 2006 Roctrip. The first climbing event described in the previous section was a milestone for Kalymnos, giving it just the right push forward to gain presence on the international climbing map. • Winter: You often get mild, sunny, clear days during winter. However, many remarkable long routes (40–45m) have been opened on Kalymnos in the past few years. 6. Thus, a mountain route may be graded 5.6 (rock difficulty), A2 (aid difficulty), WI3 (ice climbing difficulty), M5 * (mixed climbing difficulty), 70 degrees (steepness), 4000 ft (length), VI (commitment level), and many other factors. Stalactites or other rock should never be drilled simply for placing a sling. Andrea di Bari returned to Kalymnos in October of the same year, this time with Andrea Gallo, a photographer working for Alp magazine. There are a variety of crags on the island, caves, vertical walls, and even a long adventurous climb to the top of the north face. In November/December 2010, the Kalymnos municipality funded the rebolting of more than 100 routes. 1. Again, this is the minimum number of quickdraws you need to climb safely. Fortunately, Kalymnos is an unusually egalitarian climbing destination in that there are great routes at a wide range of grades on many crags, making it a very good choice for mixed ability teams. The dominant reason that people do not climb as much in the winter is simply because the tourism season has died and many of the amenities in Massouri have shut down about Nov 1st and less direct flights are available from the rest of Europe. The vast majority of these bolts is used for rebolting older routes rather than new routing. Our hopes go up every so often, but sadly Kalymnos still does not recycle. The gates are there to control the sheep and goats, and they are meant to be closed. For more specific technical information, contact an experience provider. Designed to accommodate for all levels of difficulty in terms of the climbs and also provide guidance to beginners who want to enter the world of climbing. One of the most famous climbing spots on the island is at the top of Massouri mountain, where climbers can even remain hanging out from the rocks, gazing at the staggering sunset, as … “18 QDs”). Since it was founded it has performed rescue operations for climbers and non-climbers alike, some under very adverse circumstances (weather, difficult access to the accident site, severe injuries, or all of the above). In some respects the rock resembles that of Thailand, only a little sharper. – your previous experience equipping and/or rebolting sport routes; – your bolt specifications (which must comply with the specifications in the New Route Protocol); – the number of new routes you plan to rebolt; and. Besides concealing holds and footholds, the plants may also conceal loose rock. So check the date in the guidebook, and avoid completing the bolting of unfinished projects until at least two years have gone by. 11. • What about my other trash? A lot—if not most—of the land around the cliffs of Kalymnos is used by local shepherds and their animals. Equally important is that the limestone is showing less signs of polish compared to the rock at other well-known climbing areas of Europe. Stalactites sometimes drip in the spring and, as they are softer, they are more likely to break. Since 2010, we buy the bolts, hangers, lower-offs, and other hardware ourselves. Dust off your copy of Greek Mythology for inspiration. • Always drill a bit deeper than the length of the bolt, so that in future rebolting the old bolt can be hammered into the rock. Kalymnian rock seems to come in three varieties: – extremely overhanging with blobs, tufas, and stalactites, which can still be “just” 7a even at a 20° angle; – slightly overhanging or vertical smooth white and orange walls with pockets and smaller tufa features; and. Be prepared to swat them away year-round. Keep this in mind when you shop. 14. Some very popular newer crags (Secret Garden, Arginonta Valley, to name a couple) are in the shade almost all day; they often enjoy a cool breeze, and you may even need long sleeves for belaying on summer mornings. About half of the routes on Kalymnos are graded up to 6b+, and more than one-third of the total routes are between 6a–6b+, so Kalymnos is ideal for new climbers, older climbers, or those transitioning from the gym to outdoor climbing. Not having a rescue team on the island is now unthinkable. • For routes on stalactites: Use medium-to-long quickdraw slings. He didn’t do any climbing, but he did take some rather uninspiring photos of the crags. Most routes are equipped and vary in level of difficulty from 4 (training) to 9 (experienced), with most being mid-range 6. He also did the first ascent of Los Revolucionarios 9a 30m after 6 tries over 4 days. Read more about the 2nd Kalymnos Climbing Festival. So, how can you equip new routes on Kalymnos? It all started when a couple of famous Italian climbers visited the island and saw the huge potential it had in terms of climbing. For the monster routes at Grande Grotta and Sikati Cave you will also need 5–6 long slings to reduce rope drag, directing your rope around the tufas and stalactites. The 4th Climbing Festival of Kalymnos (22-26 May 2009) was organized by the Municipality of Kalymnos and sponsored, mainly, by the Greek National Tourism Organisation and the Greek sports company Polo. Going off the path can also be quite dangerous, especially if the terrain is steep. Route lengths can never be exact, so always tie a knot at the unused end of your rope. Special guests were the already mega-talented 16-year-old Adam Ondra and 22-year-old Slovenian climbing champion Maja Vidmar, and more than 300 registered climbers from around the world got to admire them. • What rope length: 70m is the minimum standard single rope length for Kalymnos (9–10.5mm diameter). Find out more…. At the same time the first Kalymnos Rock Climbing Guide was published. This is a recommendation only. More details about that project here and here. Great efforts have been made toward consistent grading, but since routes on Kalymnos are equipped by climbers from all over the world, and some of these routes have not yet seen their second ascent, some may need re-grading. Kalymnos is one of the most popular climbing destinations worldwide. From 2000 to 2010, Kalymnos was one of the few climbing areas where routes were checked and rebolted regularly by a professional mountain guide. This situation will be slow to change given the particularly rough surface of the rock.   Here’s the lineup of what is still the best festival on Kalymnos to date: Dani Andrada (ESP), Klemen Beçan (SLO), Said Belhaj (SWE), Dave Graham (USA), Alex Huber (GER), Ivailo Krastev (BUL), Thanasis Ktenas (GRE), Tony Lamiche (FRA), Chris Lindner (USA), Steve McCLure (GB), Shawn McColl (CAN), Arnaud Petit (FRA), Ethan Pringle (USA), Manu Romain (FRA), Chris Sharma (USA), Katie Brown (USA), Stéphanie Bodet (FRA), Martina Cufar (SLO), Charlotte Durif (FRA), Melissa Lacasse (CAN), Daila OJeda (ESP), Liv Sansoz (FRA). Bring reusable bags whenever you can, refill water bottles at the public water dispensers, use “green” products whenever possible, and generally remember that any positive change in our habits, no matter how small, can make an impact. For detailed reports of the 2012 North Face festival see here, and for a brief report of the 2013 North Face festival see here. In other words, you must notify the municipality first and wait for approval before you start to drill, otherwise your routes may be taken down. The problems are organized into circuits and each circuit is color-coded for their degree of difficulty. "It occurred to me that anyway one more Sunday was over, that Maman was buried now, that I was going back to work, and that, really, nothing had changed." lower-offs on the first 43 routes were replaced at that time. It offers a great number and variety of lime stone rocks with different kinds of difficulty degrees (overhangs, caves with stalactites, slabs...). • The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festivals (2012/2013/2014): The North Face stepped in to organize three consecutive festivals on Kalymnos (2012-2014) with a lineup of many top athletes. The couple again visited the island in the 90s helped to set up and opened routes mainly on the north side of the island. Email the committee overseeing the new routing on Kalymnos to notify them that you would like to rebolt old routes on Kalymnos. Not an easy task when the route is 60m long, imagine remembering that many moves! While you are visiting, Kalymnos is your home. Jeff Achey, editor at the time of Climbing magazine, was also there, and he subsequently wrote a 10-page article in issue #238 of Climbing. The atmosphere in Kalymnos is a special one. • The 3rd Climbing Festival of Kalymnos (25-30 October 2006) was the celebrated Petzl Roctrip Kalymnos. 316L Marine or HCR expansion bolts, glue-in 316L Marine, HCR, or titanium expansion bolts using epoxy resin. In most cases, if you need more than 15 quickdraws it will be mentioned in the route description (i.e. Generally mild weather with comfortable temperatures make all-day climbing a possibility. Since then, maintenance of routes has gone back to the hands of volunteers. Everything changed by chance, when the Italian climber Andrea di Bari visited Kalymnos for his summer holidays in 1996. Simon Montmory is a certified climbing instructor (French National Diploma), passionate climber and route setter living on the island of Kalymnos, the climbers paradise. As early as 2001 and 2002, an estimated 4,000 climbers visited Kalymnos. Prior to 1997 there was virtually no climbing on Kalymnos. Many climbers describe the equipping of routes on Kalymnos as “the gold standard of sport climbing.” Routes are generally equipped in a sensible and encouraging manner using stainless steel bolts. 16. It brought approximately 1000 climbers to the island, including a collection of the finest climbing athletes in the world at the time, who challenged themselves against the newly-bolted “ultimate” routes in Sikati Cave. – who (name of injured climber and telephone number where you can be contacted); – what (type of injury, number of people injured, severity of injury); • Do not try to move the injured climber. If you disagree with a grade or description, please share your feedback publicly on this site or email us. It was back in 1996 when Andrea di Bari "discovered", almost by chance, the nigh limitless garden of rocks on the island of Kalymnos while holidaying in Greece’s Dodecanese with his wife. Three PETZL climbers stayed on Kalymnos for a full month to equip the routes. No leftover food, food wrappers, toilet paper, or cigarette butts should be left behind. She climbed beautifully and onsighted her first 8b on Kalymnos, Spartan Wall 20m, a vertical technical route with small holds. That being said, when you need to poop at the crag…, – Go at least 100m away from the cliffs and the path, – Dig a deep enough hole with your hands or a stone, – When you are finished, cover and conceal the hole, – Pack toilet paper in a bag and take with you. Since 2015, the local municipality has continued to throw together underwhelming annual festivals in September or October, even though Kalymnos has long outgrown any need for them. The degrees of difficulty for the Kalymnian trails start from 4c ( for beginners) and reach up to 9c (for experienced climbers). This magnificent island of the Dodecanese in the Aegean Sea has many assets for both novice and experienced climbers. About half of the routes on Kalymnos are graded up to 6b+, and more than one-third of the total routes are between 6a–6b+, so Kalymnos is ideal for new climbers, older climbers, or those transitioning from the gym to outdoor climbing. A minimum of €5000 is set aside from guidebook proceeds every year for the voluntary bolting and rebolting of routes on Kalymnos. The rock of Kalymnos is limestone of the very best quality. A new route is not just about bolting and cleaning. All loose rock must be cleaned meticulously using a hammer and/or a crowbar, and vegetation in the line of a route must be removed. It all started when a famous Italian couple climbers visited the island and saw the huge potential of the island in terms of climbing. The guidebook has reached the 2010 edition. 4. But let’s not forget Maja Vidmar, who was also in excellent form. Over the years, several local businesses have “sponsored” the opening of new routes to promote their businesses. 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Route Protocol ( courtesy of the 2nd climbing Festival of Kalymnos and,.
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